Frequently Asked Questions

No. Every estimate is free and on site, with no obligation to book.

Yes. D&N Site Development is fully insured for residential and commercial site work. Certificates of insurance are available on request before work begins.

Monmouth & Ocean County, New Jersey, plus nearby Middlesex and Mercer County towns. See the service areas page for the full list.

Yes — homeowners, builders, developers, property managers and municipalities. Scope ranges from a backyard patio to multi-acre commercial clearing.

On site, in writing, line by line. Clearing, grubbing, hauling, base and grading are broken out so you can see what you're paying for and phase the work if you want to.

We'll tell you exactly what your township requires — tree removal, soil movement, demolition or land disturbance permits are common in New Jersey — and work with your permit set. We can coordinate with your township on the demolition and disconnect side.

It's hauled off to licensed disposal facilities, and the cost is itemized in your estimate. The exception is forestry mulching, where material stays on site as a chip layer by design.

We prioritize storm damage and downed-limb cleanup when we can. Call 848-309-8468 and we'll tell you our real availability.

Standard payment terms are set out on your written estimate, typically a deposit at scheduling with the balance on completion. Ask when we walk the job.

Yes, and it's usually cheaper. Bundling clearing, grading and paving into one mobilization avoids paying to move equipment onto the property twice.

Cost is driven by density, tree size, terrain and how much material has to leave the property. A light, mostly-brush half-acre is a very different job from a wooded acre with mature hardwood and stumps. That's why we price on site rather than by a web calculator — the walkthrough and written estimate are free, and the number we give you is the number you pay.

Yes. Standard clearing includes grubbing — pulling stumps and root balls out rather than cutting flush. If you only want stumps ground down and the root mass left in place, we can price that instead; it's cheaper, but it isn't suitable under a building pad or driveway.

We sort on site. Clean wood is chipped or milled where it makes sense, and everything else is hauled to a licensed disposal facility. Haul-off and tipping are itemized in your estimate — no surprise disposal charge at the end.

Often, yes. Many New Jersey townships require a tree removal, soil movement or land disturbance permit, and NJDEP rules apply near wetlands, streams and steep slopes. We'll tell you what your township requires during the walkthrough and work with your permit set.

A typical residential lot is one to three days. Multi-acre and commercial parcels are scheduled by the acre once we've walked the site. We'll give you a date range in writing with the estimate.

Asphalt is the lower up-front cost and goes in fast, which makes it the practical choice for long driveways. Pavers cost more initially but last longer, can be lifted and reset in sections if anything ever settles, and add far more to resale value. We'll price both on your job so you're comparing real numbers, not averages.

Most residential patios run three to five working days depending on square footage, access and whether walls or steps are part of the scope. Weather during base work can add a day.

Not if the base is right. Settling is almost always a base-depth or compaction problem, not a paver problem. We excavate deeper than the minimum where the soil calls for it, compact in lifts, and use edge restraint on every perimeter — and we tell you exactly what base is going in before you sign.

New asphalt should cure roughly 6–12 months before its first seal, then every 2–3 years after that. Sealing too early traps oils and softens the surface. Sealing on schedule is the cheapest thing you can do to postpone a full replacement.

Yes, and this is where being a site work contractor pays off. If water is pooling or running toward the house, we can regrade, re-pitch and add drainage as part of the same job instead of sending you to a second contractor.

Roughly: one cubic yard covers about 100 square feet at 3 inches deep. For a 1,000 sq ft area at 3 inches you'd want about 10 yards. Tell us the area and the depth and we'll do the math on the estimate — over-ordering is wasted money and under-ordering means a second delivery fee.

Fill dirt is structural — it goes in holes and under grade to build elevation, and it isn't meant to grow anything. Topsoil is the organic layer that goes on top for lawn, garden and planting. Big elevation changes usually want fill first, topsoil last.

Yes. There are two approaches: a partial removal, where the pool is broken up, drainage-punched and backfilled, and a full removal, where the entire shell leaves the property. Full removal costs more but avoids future settling and disclosure issues when you sell. We'll price both.

Yes — dumpsters, hauling and tipping fees are itemized in your written estimate. Everything goes to a licensed facility. You won't get a separate disposal bill after the fact.

Most New Jersey townships require a demolition permit for permanent structures, and utility disconnect sign-offs before work starts. Small non-permanent sheds are often exempt. We'll tell you which bucket your project falls in and coordinate with your township.

Brush removal handles growth at and above ground level — briars, saplings, vines, thickets — and leaves the soil largely undisturbed. Land clearing goes further: stumps and root balls come out and the site is graded for construction. If you're building, you want clearing. If you want the property usable again, brush removal is usually enough and costs less.

Yes. Heavily overgrown and abandoned lots are routine work for us. Denser growth takes longer, but we'll walk it and give you a firm number before anything starts.

Yes, unless you want chips left on site — some customers keep them for trails or mulch beds. Otherwise everything leaves the property; hauling is included in the written estimate.

That's most of our fence line work. We cut back by hand where the machine can't work safely, so the fence, posts and any landscaping you're keeping come through intact.

Most brush jobs are scheduled within days of the estimate, and storm cleanup we try to prioritize. Call 848-309-8468 and we'll tell you our real availability.

A mulching head mounted on a machine grinds standing brush and small trees into wood chips on the spot. The material stays on the ground as a chip layer instead of being hauled away. It's faster and usually cheaper than conventional clearing because there's no debris removal, no burn permit and no disposal fees.

No. It grinds material at or slightly below grade and leaves the root systems intact. That's a feature if you want erosion control and no soil disturbance — but if you're building on the site, you need full clearing and grubbing instead. We do both, so we'll tell you honestly which one your project needs.

One cubic yard covers about 100 square feet at 3 inches deep, which is the depth most beds want. Give us your bed dimensions and we'll calculate it on the estimate.

Mid to late spring, once the soil has warmed, is ideal for landscape beds — early enough to suppress weeds before they establish. A fall refresh helps insulate roots through winter. Forestry mulching can be done year-round, and winter is often the most efficient season because the growth is down and the ground is firm.

It suppresses it significantly, especially at a good depth, but aggressive species will push through eventually. Most properties get several years out of one pass. For permanent conversion to lawn or a building pad, clearing and grubbing is the right call.